Hvar Musings

Espresso atop the Spanish Castle Magic overlooking Hvar, after swim, pizza lunch, and dropping off laundry. Climb in heat of midday, to see great views, contemplate Anna's mystical stories, Euro 2013 with Cynthia, talk with Curt about AA, fathers, family. This place is right and it's not all random. Some things fit too well.

Notes from Croatia

Opatija by the Sea - The Croatian Riviera.


Imperial Hotel is summer resort for some Hapsburg royalty, just as old but charming, ignoring window dry rot and other obvious "used to be great" touches, with the Baroque interior and ubiquitous yellow paint. Hot, humid; threatening thunderclouds cropped up as we drove over the border from Slovenia toward the coast. By the time we got into town, rain spreading across from Rijeka. Long lunch at Hemingway's that sufficed, then rain and thunder started on the way back to the hotel. Questionable whether we would play outside on the terrace. Sean led a group in an a capella Star Spangled Banner in honor of 4th of July.


The band set up under umbrellas on the terrace and used the festival's sound system. During the set up, Brown told the band, "Hey guys, Elvis needs some help." Has this phrase ever been used before in this context to this audience? Probably not.


Downbeat about 5:15 drew crowds from hotel, as well as off the street. Some watched from across the main drag in town and the band delivered a killer performance that left many slackjawed. In particular, New Musical Express rocked the place.


After dinner, Tower of Power (Described as 'God's Soul Band.' I like the idea of a deity with their own personal R&B revue.) at the Liburnia Jazz Festival; loud, lots of fun. Checked internet in an attempt to send email and photos, but no access so off to bed for early wake-up. Photos from Opatija here.

8 am and we are on the road to Split, 6.5 hours down the coast, through the mountains on the Croatian equivalent of the Interstate, well maintained, wide and great road, go Marco go! First, we get a ferry ride and then to Palace Hotel in Hvar.

Vienna>Graz>Ljubljana

We moved from Vienna, Austria into Slovenia today, stopping for lunch in Graz, a picturesque city in south Austria, from which Arnold Schwarzenegger hails.



Ljubljana - Another charming burg. Stayed at Hotel M. Comfortable, clean, step. Up from Hotel Atlas in Vienna.

Dinner then 20 minute stroll through their Tivoli Garden to main square where big crowds gathering for Saturday night out on the town., with added excitement of World Cup match between Spain and Paraguay on TVs at most all the bars and cafes. Got gelato and reconnected With Scott B., Curt & Andy McCarthy watched with the other Slovenians, as well as some great people viewing.

Sunday am, 4th of July, hour and a half of tourist stuff, strolling the waterfront. Pictures to be taken, souvenirs and chotchkes to be admired, even some stuff from Nazi era, as well as lots of Soviet memorabilia, disturbing for its nonchalant character. How do they deal with that history? Maybe the same way Americans do with slavery and the genocide of the native population.



Tomorrow, the 4th of July, we go to Opatija, Croatia, perform at the Palace Hotel, then go see Tower of Power at the Liburnia Jazz Fest.

Free floating anxiety

So, how do you deal with the free-floating anxiety associated with all that needed to get done before the trip, the RHS Jazz Euro-Adventure? Get it all done? Remember all the details? Like, where IS the toilet articles kit that I wanted to wash? And, why wake up at 5:30 to remember that one? Deal with the fretting moms, lists, organization that no one will pay attention to once we are underway? Pack, repack, buy the essentials and non-essentials and the superfluous. Once we shove off, get on the plane, much will subside, replaced by other trip-related anxieties, no doubt. Got to remember that others will suck up the leadership role, and I can comfortably slip into a role.

Part of how I deal with it is, get on the bike and ride. Lance was right, the bike is a source of zen comfort, healing a way to get those demons back in line. This year, I just haven't ridden as much as in the past, part of not having a big century for which to train, part because of a crazy schedule, teaching lots of classes, the OCL project (the reporting requirements to get paid are a stupid hassle), GR, QM and all the other very good stuff I'm in the middle of at TLF. And, the youngest one graduates, getting ready to go North of the Border, and the middle one shows up with a keeper (!), and C is busy with real estate, so life is good and busy, and somewhat full, and fulfilling, but still, not enough saddle time to arrest the free-floating anxiety.

On the current Notes to Self list:

* Yoga, yoga, yoga-- Stretch, breathe, stretch, breathe
* Ride more. Drive less.
* More salad, less sandwiches
* Less poetry, more problem-solving.
* Less TV, more reading, more films!
* Keep it simple.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Kent drops out of Tour Divide, a ride underscored by tragedy. Oil continues to flow into the Gulf and stupidity reigns. The national debate, narrative is depressing. World Cup is a mitigator. Tour de France will be on during our trip. Lots of other news may be adding to the FFA, and maybe it's time to unplug a bit, get away from the tweets and FB updates, certainly the Bb world, and get back into the Zen. The bike is good for the Zen.

Jody and Gamelan Pacifica

Wonderful performance last night! Jody, C's cousin from Uncle Jack, is a world leader and expert in gamelan, Indonesian music that combines percussion, flutes, vocals and a host of other fascinating sounds and rhythms. She had been working with Gamelan Pacifica for about a week at Cornish, and their concert featured her compositions, including an amazing blend of a Stephen Foster tune, Hard Times, plus Jewish themes, Sabbath Bride, with the gamelan.

After dinner at the Shanghai Garden on Thursday, she invited us to the performance. It was great to get her together with Max, so he could hear her comments and suggestions, as well as plug into her network of colleagues, while he continues to gather information in his college search.

We've been quite cultured this fall, Equivocation at the Seattle Rep, Abe Lincoln in Illinois at Intiman, after Othello and The Year of Magical Thinking, plus A Serious Man at the Harvard Exit. And, we'll wrap up the fall and transition into the holidays this week with Ellington's Jazz Nutcracker, guaranteed to keep you swinging through Hannucrist and into the New Year!

Roughriders Win!

So, the photos are here.

And, the music is here.

The reason for the trip was for C and I to be here for RHS Jazz, for Max, to watch our son play at Lincoln Center in the Essentially Ellington competition held by Jazz at Lincoln Center, Wynton Marsalis, Musical Director. Unbelievably cool. Saturday a.m., up early (for us) with breakfast at the Wellington Hotel coffee shop, another great NYC waitress, but distinctly different from Monica (think Lewinsky) at the Carnegie the night before.

Monica (not Lewinsky) told us that she’d been there for 50 years, and when C asked if she could change her order (I’d like to share my husband’s pastrami sandwich!) responded that “It takes an act of Congress!) Great food, cole slaw, pickles, latkes…(Don’t tell ‘em you shared, it’ll cost more.)

Saw Max in the Wellington Lobby after breakfast. He acknowledged us, but flashed a look that said, "Don’t get within 50 yards of me." The band sure looked uptight, not the relaxed confidence we’re used to. Walked to Columbus Circle, up the escalator to Rose Hall in the Time Warner building, RHS up first at 10:00 a.m. (An unlucky draw says Roslyn, the Donna Reed vision of hard work, competence and conscience). First the intros of the judges then sound check, and then Scott walks on, no intros, the boys kick off with the Theme from the Asphalt Jungle, hit all the notes, swinging and rhythm section driving. Blue Serge is slow, melodic, soloists understated, but Wyatt, Corey and Sean all do their parts well, and then the finale, the big show stopper, led by Ethan and Alex D tap dancing the intro to Jam-A-Diddy, big flourish of a finish and a standing O. What could be better?

To this untrained ear, the next three bands could be better. Clearer solos, great style, swing, great ovations…..sheesh…hope that RHS even makes it into the finals, so Ba, Duff, Nick, and the Kanes can see them….

Returned to the Wellington about 4 to wait for Kanes, dropped C at Columbus Circle so she could be there for the announcement. C called at 4:10 to tell me that the announcement would be in ten minutes. I’m resigned for a let down, but the next call is from Kanes who are later than they thought, and that’s okay. Then, C calls back from inside, I can’t hear, although she says ‘Garfield,’ then she calls again from outside, and RHS, Garfield and Sun Prairie have made the evening show. Wynton says, “If your band didn’t make the finals, you need to think about how your rhythm section performed. Can’t have the bass going one way and the drums another.”

RHS is up second, after Garfield’s usual high-power blues and swing that always is a crowd-pleaser. Scott gets to do his great job of contrast, “We’re going to slow it down a bit…” and introduces Wynton who the band backs on “All Heart.’ Never better, but they conclude with the best version of Asphalt Jungle to date. (Andy C says later that this is the best they’ve played all year)

The last band performs, JALC rocks and swings through a selection of next year’s selections, and then it’s award time. First the sectionals, Garfield seems to dominate, when Sun Prairie is not, although RHS trumpets are recognized. Individual awards again focus on others. Wynton tells the winners to savor the moment, to thank their directors, “You’ll never forget your director!’ He ad-libs, he talks about playing with soul and humanity (We use that when we can’t decide who to give awards to) and the trade-offs between solo and ensemble work, plus the importance (again) of the drums and bass. Lots of life lesson reinforcement.

And then, what? Sun Prairie is third? And then, Garfield is second? And that makes Roosevelt #1, the winner in what the Band Directors have all described as the Best High School Jazz Festival in the World! Big Whoops, Standing O’s shouts, high fives, Max seeks me out and thanks me for everything, hugs, kisses, and disbelief, biggest smiles ever, flash bulbs and OMG. Scott later says that this may be his best band ever.

C had to be there for this. Wish Tony had been there. But Ba and Duff were there! Bob, Jen, Jack and Frances were there. And, Nick Hersh was there, so we’ve got witnesses…

Happier Times

There were some happier times in March, including these, plus the RHS Jazz Auction.